Portuguese Inland Way to Santiago: complete guide to stages, history and tips
Estimated reading time: 11 minutes
First of all, the Portuguese Inland Way to Santiago (CPSI) is a less crowded alternative to the Central and Coastal routes. Above all, it is a medieval pilgrimage route that crosses eight Portuguese municipalities —
Farminhão – Viseu – Calde – Ribolhos – Bigorne – Penude – Cumieira – Vila Real – Parada de Aguiar – Vidago – Chaves – Vilarelho da Raia – Verin – Laza – Vilar do Bairro – Xunqueira de Ambia – Ourense – Cea – Dozon – A Laxe – Santiago de Compostela
| 01 | Farminhão | |
| 02 | 17 Viseu | Fontelo Hostel |
| 03 | 34 Calde | Almargem Hostel |
| 04 | 56 Ribolhos | Ribolhos Hostel |
| 05 | 77 Bigorne | The Bigornes Hostel |
| 06 | 89 Penude | Penude Hostel |
| 07 | 124 Cumieira | Bertelo Hostel |
| 08 | 132 Vila Real | Diocesan House |
| 09 | 158 Parada de Aguiar | Santiago Hostel |
| 10 | 185 Vidago | Vidago Voluntary Fire Brigade |
| 11 | 198 Chaves | Flaviens Voluntary Fire Brigade |
| 12 | 212 Vilarelho da Raia | Social and Cultural Centre of Vilarelho da Raia |
| 13 | 227 Verin | Hostel Casa do Escudo |
| 14 | 248 Laza | Laza Hostel |
| 15 | 267 Vilar do Bairro | Vilar de Barrio Pilgrims’ Hostel |
| 16 | 299 Xunqueira de Ambía | Xunqueira Pilgrims’ Hostel |
| 17 | 321 Ourense | San Francisco Convent Hostel |
| 18 | 343 CEA | San Cristovo de Cea Hostel |
| 19 | 363 Dozón | Castro de Dozón Hostel |
| 20 | 381 A Laxe | A Laxe Hostel |
| 23 | [x] Trasmiras | Viladerei Hostel |
| 24 | [x] Sandiás | Sandiás Hostel |
Origin and historical context
This itinerary is likewise, and probably, one of the oldest Jacobean routes in Portugal. Moreover, several sources indicate that the ancient route began in Coimbra and continued through Viseu, Lamego, Peso da Régua, Vila Real, Vila Pouca de Aguiar and Chaves, before heading towards Verín and Ourense. In other words, being closer to the Castilian border than the Central Way, some variants approached what was known as the Eastern or Border Way. Similarly, the centuries-old passage of pilgrims left its mark on place names, hostels, monuments and the popular culture of the towns along the route. Today, the municipalities and several local initiatives have restored and signposted the route, transforming former primary schools into pilgrim hostels.
Route characteristics
- Total length: 387 km (214 km in Portugal).
- Stages in Portuguese territory: 11 stages between Farminhão (Viseu) and Vilarelho da Raia.
- Municipalities crossed: Viseu, Castro Daire, Lamego, Peso da Régua, Santa Marta de Penaguião, Vila Real, Vila Pouca de Aguiar and Chaves.
- Common starting point: Viseu Cathedral (some pilgrims start in Coimbra).
- Arrival point in Portugal: Chaves; the border is crossed at Vilarelho da Raia.
- Difficulty: the route has several ascents and descents, especially in the first stages; four stages are considered very difficult.
- Modes: can be done on foot, by bicycle or on horseback.
- Best season: spring and autumn, when temperatures are moderate.
Highlights and unmissable experiences
On the other hand, despite its physical demands, the Portuguese Inland Way offers unique experiences and truly memorable landscapes. Thus, throughout the stages, the pilgrim encounters history, art, nature and spirituality in perfect harmony. Below are some of the highlights most often mentioned by pilgrims.
Viseu and urban art
Starting in Viseu allows visitors to explore the historic centre, where the 12th-century cathedral, the Grão Vasco Museum and the Cathedral Square stand out. In addition, the city hosted an urban art project that transformed several façades into open-air galleries. Murals by artists such as Bordalo II, AKA Corleone and Frederico Draw add colour and life to the beginning of the route. Finally, a panel dedicated to Saint James, located in the Vila Meã hostel, deserves special mention.
Lush nature and yellow broom flowers
During spring, wildflowers and, above all, the yellow broom (broom shrub) accompany the route and brighten the hillsides. In fact, this flower inspired the name of the restaurant “A Giesta” in the village of Bigorne. In addition, the initial stages cross forests, farmland and greenways along the Paiva stream, offering constant contact with nature.
Montemuro Mountain Range and Paiva River
Between Ribolhos and Bigorne, pilgrims climb the Montemuro Mountains, one of the highest mountain ranges in Portugal, with an average altitude of around 838 m. The descent, in turn, is steep and reveals typical villages, herds and the crossing of the Paiva River via traditional stepping stones. In addition, this region is part of the Natura 2000 network and is home to the famous 516 Arouca, considered the largest pedestrian suspension bridge in Europe.
Lamego and medieval heritage
The arrival in Lamego is undoubtedly one of the most emotional moments of the journey. The route passes by the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, whose baroque staircase of 686 steps impresses every visitor. In the historic centre, the cathedral with Romanesque features, the 12th-century castle and a 13th-century cistern also stand out. On the other hand, on the outskirts of the city lies the Chapel of São Pedro de Balsemão, a rare example of Visigothic architecture from the 6th century.
Douro Valley
Between Lamego and Peso da Régua, the route crosses the Alto Douro Wine Region, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The hillsides covered with terraced vineyards, olive trees and the view over the Douro River create an absolutely unforgettable landscape. In addition, it is possible to follow the Torres Way variant, which descends through a rocky gorge and offers even more dramatic panoramas.
Thermal spas and Belle Époque architecture
In the Pedras Salgadas region, near Vidago, lie the ruins of old Belle Époque hotels built to welcome bathers in search of thermal waters. Today, these buildings, partially reclaimed by nature, remain visible from the path. Meanwhile, the managers revitalised part of the resort and turned it into a modern thermal park with cabins suspended among the trees, harmoniously integrated into the landscape.
Roman heritage in Chaves
Before entering Spain, the city of Chaves offers a true immersion into Roman history. The route crosses the emblematic Trajan Bridge, built in the 1st century AD during the reign of Emperor Trajan. This bridge still preserves milestones with original Roman inscriptions. In addition, nearby visitors can see the Roman baths, rediscovered in 2005 and opened to the public in 2021 — one of the largest Roman thermal complexes in the Iberian Peninsula.
🟩 FAQs about the Portuguese Inland Way to Santiago
The Portuguese Inland Way to Santiago is approximately 387 kilometres long, of which 214 km are in Portuguese territory. The route starts in Viseu and ends in Santiago de Compostela, passing through Chaves and Verín, already in Spain. In addition, pilgrims can divide the route into about 11 to 13 stages, depending on their pace and the time they have available.
Normally, pilgrims complete the route in about two weeks, that is, between 12 and 15 days of walking. However, the total time depends on physical condition and the type of accommodation chosen. In addition, many pilgrims choose to complete only a few stages, returning later to finish the route at another time.
The traditional starting point is Viseu Cathedral, where a yellow arrow marks the beginning of the route. In fact, Viseu is an excellent choice because it offers good infrastructure, accommodation and transport options. On the other hand, it is also possible to start in cities such as Lamego or Chaves, especially for those who intend to do only part of the route.
🟩 FAQs about the Portuguese Inland Way to Santiago
Pilgrims consider the level of difficulty to be medium to high, due to the steep climbs and descents in mountainous areas such as the Montemuro Range. However, the landscape makes the effort worthwhile, as the route crosses forests, valleys and historic villages. In addition, with good planning and a moderate pace, it is a route accessible to those with regular physical preparation.
The itinerary is rich in historical and natural heritage. Among the most visited places are Viseu Cathedral, the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies in Lamego, the Douro Valley, the Pedras Salgadas Thermal Spa and the Trajan Bridge in Chaves. In addition, the urban art murals in Viseu and the landscapes of the Alto Douro Wine Region make this route one of the most photogenic of all.
Yes, it is perfectly possible. More and more cyclists and e-bikers are choosing this route, especially on the stages between Viseu and Chaves. In addition, several sections already have greenways and rural roads with good surfaces, ideal for those who prefer cycling instead of walking. Finally, services such as Turisbike allow pilgrims to rent bicycles and transport luggage between stages, making the experience even more comfortable.
A saber
- The Portuguese Inland Way to Santiago is a medieval pilgrimage route, 387 km long, that connects several towns before reaching Spain.
- It crosses eight municipalities in Portugal, with about 214 km located in Portuguese territory.
- It has 11 stages, with varying challenges and historical sites such as Lamego and Chaves.
- The route was recently signposted, seeking recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- It is ideal to travel on foot, by bicycle or on horseback, especially in spring and autumn.
How to do it
Plan and complete the Portuguese Inland Way to Santiago with Turisbike’s logistical support.
Time needed: 7 days
On foot: 12–15 days (387 km in total)
By bicycle: 4–7 days (adjust to your pace)
- Plan the start of your pilgrimage
Choose your starting point (Viseu Cathedral or another location along the route). Set your dates, pace and number of stages. Request a bike rental from Turisbike and also arrange transport to the place where you want to start your first stage.
- Book accommodation and prepare your equipment
Secure your bookings in hostels, guesthouses or hotels along the chosen stages. Prepare a light backpack, suitable footwear and layered clothing.
- Start the way and follow the signs
No dia marcado, parte e segue as setas amarelas. Entretanto, ajusta distâncias diárias conforme a tua energia.
- Take only the essentials (optional: luggage transport)
To walk or cycle comfortably, activate the hotel-to-hotel luggage transport. This way, you travel light and stay focused on the route. This service is suitable for groups of at least 6 people.
- Arrival in Santiago and bicycle return
At the end, return the bicycle in Santiago:
at Hostel Costa Azul, within the suggested time; or at the previously booked hotel (as defined in the reservation).
Finally, stop by the Pilgrim’s Office to validate your Compostela.
